Peloponnese: Eleia
The region of Eleia is most known for Ancient Olympia where the first Olympic games were held but it is also known by many for a spectacular beach that stretches for miles
Olympia, on the banks of the
Alfios River is an archeological site rich in the
remains of old buildings and history. The games
began ‘officially’ in 776 BC and were held every 4
years though there is evidence that they actually
began long before. During the games a truce in any
wars or conflicts was declared and athletes
competed on the playing field rather then the
battlefield. They were finally ended in 393 AD by
Theodocious I but revived again in 1896 by the
French Historian and Educator Pierre de Coubertin.
They have continued to this day and many Greeks
feel the games should be returned to their ancient
site to eliminate the corruption and competition
which takes place as each city tries to host it.
Though I doubt that would eliminate the corruption
it would at least centralize it. Besides that, the
idea of turning this beautiful area into a modern
Olympic village with all the commercial trappings
that come with it is an obscene idea which I doubt
many people would take seriously unless they stand
to make a profit from it. The village of Olympia
is heavily impacted by tourism and a fair
indication of what would happen to the area in the
unlikely event they ever moved the Olympics here
permanently.
But if you are not too much of a purist and don't mind being in
a town where every nationality is represented and the mousaka and Greek salads
flow freely then you will see that Olympia does have a charm, more so in the
off-season than in July-August of course.
We stayed at the Hotel Europa which
is part of the Best Western Chain and it would be hard to imagine
a better hotel and location (If you have a car). To get to the Europa you leave the
town and follow the signs up a wooded mountain and it sits on the
top with a view of the valley. Beautiful rooms and good service
and a very friendly international staff. We did not eat at the hotel
restaurant nor did we go back to the town of Olympia for dinner
but instead we used the recommendation of George
the Famous Taxi Driver (who also recommended the Hotel because
this is the one he uses) and drove to the town of Ancient Pisa,
about 5 minutes drive from the hotel to the Taverna Bacchus which
was excellent in food, service and atmosphere. Actually there were several tavernas in the town
and I noticed a large tour bus though no large crowds in the restaurants.
I came to the realization that the tour buses take the tourists
to their hotel where they eat at the restaurant there or in one
of the tourist restaurants in Olympia. Then the drivers go up to
where the Greeks eat.
Helpful Sites:
Swift
Car Rentals
George's
Taxi Tours
Hotels
Athens
Guide
Travel Agents
Mainland
Guides
As for the archaeological site of Olympia
itself nobody is going to be awed or blown away by it. There are
few standing buildings and the place has been pretty well trashed
in the last couple thousand years. But it is in a beautiful setting
and there is something magical about walking through the ruins of
an ancient civilization among tall shady trees and to realize that
this phenomenon that we have commercialized and turned into one of
the world's biggest money-making enterprises all began here. Besides
the absence of advertising the most impressive thing about
Olympia has to be the massive columns scattered around the temple
of Zeus. They are in the process of restoring one so you can get
an idea of what they looked like standing intact.
See my page for Olympia at www.greecetravel.com/olympia
There are several places of note in the
area
besides Olympia. The town of Kyparissia, (more of a city than
a town and in Messinia, not Eleia) has a castle and a spectacular view. The lower part of Kyparissia
is quite busy and congested but the upper village is scenic and
quite interesting and the castle is worth a visit. You have to find
a road and make your way up because we did not see any signs for
it. From Kyparissia running
north for what must be about 70 kilometers is an endless sandy beach
on the Ionian Sea. Try stopping in the town of Kakovatos (or coastal
community or whatever it is) and drive west to the beach. Go
for a swim and then visit the small unassuming fish-taverna called
Vezzos for the cheapest and most delicious barbounia in Greece.
Further north is the lake of Kaifa and the therapeutic baths. The
southern entrance is kind of trashed so go further north and enter
by the baths or on one of the dirt roads in the woods. If you have
a fishing-pole they say you can catch kefalo as big as a large cat.
Be sure to see my Photos of the Peloponessos for pictures of Olympia and Eleia