| Hi Matt, Well, I'm obviously getting way too relaxed here in Nafplio. FINALLY, here is the write-up about the taverna I mentioned long ago . We've been having an splendid time here and are frantically trying to figure out how never to return to the U.S...even if Bush loses. All the best to you. Sindri The Best Locals-Only Taverna in Nafplio. If you’re up for a short walk into the neighborhoods of Nafplio (about 10 minutes from the old town along the flanks of Palamidi), your reward will be eating at O Pseiras, a gem of a taverna nestled in the “Pronia.” Pronia means land that was given to refugees from Crete duroing the Turkish occupation. The quality of the food here is unbeatable. O Pseiras, which means “louse-groomer” a Greek joke referring to the intense attention to detail offered here, specializes in grilled and roasted meats of all kinds. Their grilled chicken and potatoes in ladolemono is wonderful, the kondosouvli (chunks of pork from the spit) melt in your mouth...really! Their hortokeftedes (fritters from spinach, dandelion greens or zucchini) and dolmades are also awesome. And there's always something special on the menu like roast lamb with pasta or souzoukakia (meatballs in red sauce). If you’re lucky, you’ll get some horta (greens) that Kyria Fani, the proprietress, has collected that day on the hillsides outside of town. But what will make an addict out of you is the tzatziki (yogurt cucumber dip). Once you’ve tasted O Pseiras’ outrageously fiery spread, all other tzatziki’s will make you ask: “Where’s the garlic?” Of course, food is just part of the equation here. The local wine they serve is outstanding, the décor is charming, the place is immaculate, and above all, the family that operates the taverna will make you feel like you’ve wandered into a previously unknown room in your own home where a lively, humorous group of people are cooking up a storm just for you. Charis and Chryssa, Kyria Fani’s two grown children, are clever, worldly and wonderfully bossy. If they have an opinion about what you should eat, relax and accept the suggestion. Many weekend nights, locals show up with guitars for impromptu music late into the night. To get there, walk along the hill the Palamidi is on, heading away from Old Town /the sea . Turn up on 25 March Street. Take a right on Kolokotroni St. (past the Technokids storefront) and proceed past a small church (Agia Triada) with a bakery on the corner. Bear slightly left when the street seems to end and you'll find yourself in a small parking area. The tiny street leading up out of the square is Porou, and you'll see O Pseiras on your right. Open every night except Monday. |